Bollard Lights: Spacing, Height and Placement for Paths and Driveways

For a garden path, space bollard lights 2 to 3 metres apart. For a driveway, stretch that to 3 to 4 metres. Get those two numbers right and the rest of the decisions, height, voltage, finish, fall into place around them.

Spacing: the number that matters most

Most people underestimate how far apart bollards can sit and still do their job. A bollard at 400 to 600mm tall throws light roughly 1 to 1.5 metres in every direction on a flat surface, so a 2 to 3 metre gap between fittings on a garden path keeps the pool of light continuous without turning the path into a runway. Tighter spacing is fine in tight spots, a curved path around a garden bed for instance, but it’s rarely necessary on a straight run.

On a driveway, the scale is different. You want to mark the edges clearly without flooding the surface with light, and cars create a bit of ambient light of their own. A 3 to 4 metre gap works well here, and because driveways are wider, you can often get away with single-sided placement on the lower boundary rather than lights on both edges. That said, if the driveway bends, light both sides through the bend so the kerb line stays readable at night.

Staggering is worth doing whenever the path or driveway is wide enough. Rather than placing bollards directly opposite each other, offset each one by half the spacing interval. So if your lights are 2.5 metres apart along the left edge, the first fitting on the right sits 1.25 metres along. This eliminates the “airport runway” look and gives more even coverage across the width of the path.

Height: low for paths, taller for driveways

The standard guidance is 400 to 800mm for pedestrian paths. At that height the fitting sits below eye level when you’re standing, which keeps glare out of your sightline and focuses the light downward onto the surface where you need it. Many bollard lights in this height range have a louvred top or a downward-angled aperture for exactly this reason.

For driveways, 600mm to 1 metre is more common. The extra height helps the light spread across a wider surface and makes the fitting more visible to a driver approaching at speed. Go higher than a metre and you start losing the downward focus that makes bollards work efficiently. If you need something that tall for a visual marker, you’re probably looking at a garden post light rather than a bollard.

Near outdoor seating, keep heights low and pick designs with louvred or shielded apertures. A bare upward-casting bollard at table height is uncomfortable to sit next to after dark. This is one of the most common complaints we hear from customers who’ve placed a fitting too close to a bench or dining area.

240V or 12V low voltage

In Australia, 240V hardwired bollards must be installed by a licensed electrician. That’s the law in every state, and it’s non-negotiable regardless of how straightforward the job looks. The benefit of 240V is consistent output night after night, compatibility with dimmer systems (on selected models), and the full range of finishes and styles.

12V low-voltage systems are a different story. These use a transformer that steps down from 240V, and the low-voltage cable runs and the fittings themselves can legally be installed as a DIY project by the homeowner in most Australian states. If you’re planning a garden lighting project without an electrician, 12V is the route to take. The range of garden lighting available in 12V has expanded considerably, and the light quality from modern LED drivers at 12V is very close to 240V equivalents.

Solar bollards deserve an honest assessment. They work well in Queensland and much of Western Australia, where sun hours are reliable year-round. In Melbourne or Hobart over winter, solar panels on a 400mm bollard nestled among garden plants are often partly shaded and charging in weak light for weeks at a time. The result is inconsistent performance, shorter burn times on overcast nights, and batteries that degrade faster through partial-charge cycles. If solar is appealing for the installation simplicity, choose models with a generous panel size, a separate panel that you can position for maximum sun, and a good quality lithium battery rated for Australian conditions.

IP ratings and finish for Australian conditions

Any bollard installed outdoors needs at least IP44, which covers splashing water from any direction. For anything near lawn irrigation, exposed to rain-driven horizontally, or sitting at the base of a garden bed that gets watered regularly, IP65 is a sensible minimum. IP65 means the fitting is dust-tight and protected against direct water jets, so it handles the Australian summer storm season and a stray sprinkler without trouble.

Coastal locations add another consideration. Salt air oxidises cheaper zinc alloy and plain aluminium fittings within a few seasons, leaving the finish pitted and the electrical internals at risk. For anything within about two kilometres of the ocean, look for marine-grade 316 stainless steel, powder-coated aluminium with a sealed coating specified for coastal use, or quality polyresin and polycarbonate bodies. Check the product page for specific finish details because this varies by model.

Don’t overlook the base. Many bollard fittings are designed to surface-mount onto a concrete or paved base, while others have a spike or in-ground collar for soil installation. If your path is paved, confirm the base plate dimensions before ordering so the fitting covers the conduit exit neatly.

Step and threshold lighting alongside bollards

Bollards handle the long runs of path and driveway well, but steps and level changes need dedicated treatment. A bollard positioned beside a step doesn’t cast enough directional light across the nosing to make it safe. Garden step lighting, either recessed into the riser or surface-mounted to the side wall, fills that gap and gives the whole garden lighting scheme a coherent logic: bollards for the paths, step lights for the changes in level.

The two types work well together because they share the same low, ground-level design intent. Run the same finish across both, brushed stainless, matte black, or a dark bronze, and the result looks considered rather than assembled from whatever was in stock.

FAQs

How far apart should bollard lights be on a garden path?

2 to 3 metres is the standard spacing for a pedestrian path. This keeps the pool of light from each fitting overlapping slightly with the next without over-lighting the space. On a curved path, reduce the spacing through the bend to maintain visibility.

What height should outdoor bollard lights be?

For paths, 400 to 800mm is the practical range. This keeps the fitting below standing eye level, reduces glare, and focuses light on the ground surface. For driveways, 600mm to 1 metre works better because the light needs to spread across a greater width.

Can I install bollard lights myself in Australia?

It depends on the voltage. 240V hardwired bollards must be installed by a licensed electrician in all Australian states. 12V low-voltage systems, powered by a plug-in or hardwired transformer, can generally be installed as a DIY project by the homeowner for the cable runs and fittings. Solar bollards require no electrical connection at all.

What IP rating do I need for outdoor bollard lights?

IP65 is a solid baseline for most Australian outdoor installations. It covers rain, irrigation spray and dust. If the fitting will be partially submerged or in a very exposed coastal position, look for IP66 or higher, and confirm the body material is rated for salt-air exposure.